New York Fashion Week mixed vibrant Spring/Summer 2027 collections with controversy after a PETA runway protest led to a physical confrontation involving CFDA chief Steven Kolb.
NEW YORK: New York Fashion Week delivered colour, creativity and celebratory fashion for Spring/Summer 2027, but the season also ended under scrutiny after a runway protest at the COS show led to a physical confrontation involving a senior US fashion industry executive.
Across the week, designers moved beyond familiar spring florals and pastels, embracing stronger colours, contrasting fabrics and playful details. Major labels including Coach, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Tory Burch were among those presenting collections as New York opened the international fashion calendar.
Celebration became a noticeable theme. Coach marked its 85th anniversary with party-inspired looks, while Michael Kors and Carolina Herrera celebrated 45 years of their respective brands. Designers also experimented with oversized bows, fringe, statement belts and vivid shades of blue.
What happened at the COS runway show?
The mood changed during the COS presentation on September 13 when activists from animal-rights organisation PETA disrupted the runway to protest the fashion industry’s use of wool.
Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, was filmed physically restraining two protesters. Footage reviewed by Reuters showed him restraining one activist on the ground and covering her mouth with his hand.
Kolb subsequently apologised, saying security should have handled the disruption and that he should have stepped away. He took voluntary leave from the CFDA, which said the matter was being taken seriously and would undergo a full review.
PETA initially considered filing a police report. The organisation later said it would instead meet Kolb to discuss its campaign against wool and animal skins. Kolb agreed to the meeting, although a date had not been announced.
H&M, which owns COS, expressed regret over the incident and said it respected people’s right to express their views. The company also said it sources animal-derived fibres from certified farms and uses recycled sources where possible.
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Which fashion trends stood out?
Away from the controversy, New York Fashion Week reflected a wider move towards what fashion observers described as joyful dressing.
Tory Burch combined decorative designs with sporty influences, while Michael Kors used graphic stripes, sculptural forms and flashes of bright colour. Coach took a playful approach to its anniversary, including glittering gowns, colourful bows and celebratory accessories.
The result was a season balancing established American fashion identities with a more expressive mood. The runway controversy generated significant attention, but the week’s collections also provided an early indication of the colours, silhouettes and styling likely to influence Spring/Summer 2027.
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Impact to expect
Dialogue. The incident could encourage fashion organisers to review how runway disruptions are managed, while the collections themselves point towards a brighter and more expressive fashion season.
